This is a tutorial for applying water slide decals. I prefer these decals over the dry transfer decals for ease of application. There are a couple of important steps that need to be applied to the parts before applying the decals. The most important step is to apply a gloss clear coat and allowing this to cure prior to applying decals. A gloss clear coat creates a very slick and smooth surface on the parts and this is the perfect environment for the decals to stick. If the surface has not been properly prepared, the decals will not stick...Read More
The idea is to create a cast iron effect or a rough surface to the plastic. The process uses a solvent glue (I am using Mr Cement Deluxe) other thin solvent glues for model building can also be used; and an old toothbrush. Beginning with a cleaned part (seam lines, mold lines, and spruce nubs have been sanded down). Apply glue to the surface of the parts, the use the brush to rough up the surface of the part. As the glue works against the plastic, melting it; the toothbrush works to get the surface very rough. The plastic...Read More
This is a little tutorial for resin casting. There are two parts for resin casting: making the mold and making the casts. The first step is to make the molds. I like to use legos to make the mold containers because they’re plastic and I can basically build a box of any shape and size. The master piece is measured and a box is built around the master. The master is then placed inside the box. The material I’m using is RTV silicone rubber and comes in two parts, the silicone base and the activator. The base and activator...Read More
This technique combines a few other basic techniques together to create a fairly realistic looking natural wood grain effect. The first step is to paint the parts with a light and neutral wood color, for this example, I used tan. Take note of the type of paint used (lacquer, enamel, acrylic). Depending on the type of paint used, a protective clear coat may be required. This is similar to the wash technique for panel lines – using the different properties of different paint types. For this example, I used Mr Color tan, a lacquer based paint. The next step...Read More
A few years ago, I found an interesting, yet very expensive tube of putty. The label read “Light Curing Putty”. I’m always up for experimenting and decided to try the stuff out. I almost use this putty exclusively for my putty work. The stuff cures under a direct light source. I simply spread a small amount over the area I want repaired, then turn on the light and allow it to cure for about 30 seconds to a minute. It doesn’t take very long under direct light. The putty should not be allowed to sit under the light for...Read More
@thosegundamguysNo images found!
Try some other hashtag or username