This is a tutorial for applying water slide decals. I prefer these decals over the dry transfer decals for ease of application. There are a couple of important steps that need to be applied to the parts before applying the decals. The most important step is to apply a gloss clear coat and allowing this to cure prior to applying decals. A gloss clear coat creates a very slick and smooth surface on the parts and this is the perfect environment for the decals to stick. If the surface has not been properly prepared, the decals will not stick very well onto the surface. As a side note, the decals I use are from SamuelDecal.com. In come cases, the decals can be a bit on the delicate side. Meaning the ink for the decals rub off VERY easily. To counter … Read More
Texturizing with styrene glue
The idea is to create a cast iron effect or a rough surface to the plastic. The process uses a solvent glue (I am using Mr Cement Deluxe) other thin solvent glues for model building can also be used; and an old toothbrush. Beginning with a cleaned part (seam lines, mold lines, and spruce nubs have been sanded down). Apply glue to the surface of the parts, the use the brush to rough up the surface of the part. As the glue works against the plastic, melting it; the toothbrush works to get the surface very rough. The plastic parts will be very rough and have some plastic burrs from the brushing process. The second part to the technique needs to let the glue completely dry and cure before progressing. I usually leave the parts to dry over night to … Read More
Silicone Molding and Resin Casting
This is a little tutorial for resin casting. There are two parts for resin casting: making the mold and making the casts. The first step is to make the molds. I like to use legos to make the mold containers because they’re plastic and I can basically build a box of any shape and size. The master piece is measured and a box is built around the master. The master is then placed inside the box. The material I’m using is RTV silicone rubber and comes in two parts, the silicone base and the activator. The base and activator is to be mixed by weight, at a ratio of 10 parts base to 1 part activator. Your standard digital kitchen scale is very handy here when measuring. Using some disposable cups, the RTV is mixed. Once thoroughly mixed, the silicone … Read More
Wood Grain Technique
This technique combines a few other basic techniques together to create a fairly realistic looking natural wood grain effect. The first step is to paint the parts with a light and neutral wood color, for this example, I used tan. Take note of the type of paint used (lacquer, enamel, acrylic). Depending on the type of paint used, a protective clear coat may be required. This is similar to the wash technique for panel lines – using the different properties of different paint types. For this example, I used Mr Color tan, a lacquer based paint. The next step is an exercise in dry brushing. I mixed vallejo acrylics burnt sienna and light brown. Notice that I’m using an acrylic based paint for the dry brushing. I can also use an enamel based paint. These two paints won’t mix with … Read More
Light Curing Putty
A few years ago, I found an interesting, yet very expensive tube of putty. The label read “Light Curing Putty”. I’m always up for experimenting and decided to try the stuff out. I almost use this putty exclusively for my putty work. The stuff cures under a direct light source. I simply spread a small amount over the area I want repaired, then turn on the light and allow it to cure for about 30 seconds to a minute. It doesn’t take very long under direct light. The putty should not be allowed to sit under the light for longer than several minutes as once it cures, the carrier solution will start to break down the putty if it has not been wiped away. So when curing, test the putty’s hardness with a skewer. And once cured, use a paper … Read More
Panel Lines – Enamel Wash
There are hundreds of methods for doing panel lines. The best method is what works best for you. What you are comfortable with, what you are used to using. It’s a good idea to try out several techniques before settling down on your favorite technique. In the past, I have used gundam markers, very fine mechanical pencils, and very fine technical pens; but I have settled on the enamel (oil) wash method as my primary panel line method. It’s very cost efficient in comparison to some of the other techniques. But there are very specific steps that need to be taken for this process to be successful. Again, there are a hundred different ways to panel line, this just one method – and it is VERY specific. Surface should be gloss coated with either a lacquer based clear or acrylic … Read More
Preshading with the Airbrush
Once you get the basics of airbrushing practiced, it’s time to move up a level and get some practice with airbrush control. The basics of this technique is to paint a base color first, then follow this with a lighter tone to created a shaded effect. The shading effect is completely optional, some folks like the look, others don’t, so doing so is just personal preference. There are some setting factors that are part of this technique: air pressure regulation thinning ratios airbrush distance The first part of this is your basic airbrushing technique. Spray a light mist coat followed by slightly heavier coats until the part is completely painted. For the base coat, I usually pick a color that is darker than the the second layer. I usually try to avoid really dark colors such as black and dark … Read More
Basic Airbrushing
Thinning The basics of using the airbrush starts with proper paint thinning. But thinning in itself is difficult to teach through a website as there are just too many factors in affect. The same exact thinning ratio will work for a particular person, but for a different person will not work. The reason for this is the environmental factors that attribute to each person’s painting situation. Painting in a high temperature and humid environment differs greatly from a low temperature, low humidity, and also high humidity and low temperature. Additionally, the exact viscosity of the same brand, color, and type of paint may be different to two people in the same area. One may have had more of the paint’s carrier evaporated than the other, basically a fresher batch of paint verses a old batch of paint. Add in the … Read More
Paint Types
One of the most confusing things that got me when I first started building models was the different types of paints. Learning the hard way, different types of paints do not play well with one another and an attempt to mix paints of different types ended up with a gloppy mess of wasted paint. There are three main paint types offered at the local hobby shops: Lacquer/Solvent based, Acrylic/Alcohol/Water based, and Enamel/Oil based paints. Lacquer Paints These are strong paints and probably the most hazardous to your health. But they are amazing paints. The pigments in lacquer paints are very fine and some of the most vibrant model paint colors are found through this type of paint. Brands include Mr Color, Mr Surfacer, Alclad II, Tamiya spray cans, Model Masters Lacquer, Finisher’s, and Gaia Notes. I have used Mr Color … Read More
How to fix seams
Taking a look at your standard gunpla box, you will notice how nice the kit in the pictures look. It is after you put the kits together that you notice differences between the kit presented on the box and the kit you have just snapped together. One of those differences you notice is on the two part pieces, they all look like they’re one whole piece, the line down the middle of these parts are missing. Granted this could be photoshop at work done to remove those lines; but for most model builders, those lines were removed using simple techniques. There are several ways to fix seams in model kits. What works best for one person, may not be what works best for another. This article will discuss a few methods for filling in seams. The first method is to … Read More